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Abaya

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

For other uses, see Abaya (disambiguation).
A modern abaya.
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Islamic female dress
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The abaya (colloquially and more commonly, Arabic: عباية ʿabāyah, especially in Literary Arabic: عباءة ʿabā'ah; plural عبايات ʿabāyāt, عباءات ʿabā'āt), sometimes also called an aba, is a simple, loose over-garment, essentially a robe-like dress, worn by some women in the Muslim world including most of the Middle East, North Africa, and parts of the Horn of Africa.[1] Traditional abayas are usually black and may either be a large square of fabric draped from the shoulders or head or a long kaftan. The abaya covers the whole body except the head (sometimes), feet, and hands. It can be worn with the niqāb, a face veil covering all but the eyes. Some women also wear long black gloves, so their hands are covered as well. It is common that the abaya be worn on special occasions, such as mosque visits, Islamic holiday celebrations for Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha, and also during the Islamic holy month of Ramadan.

Rationale

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The rationale for the abaya is often attributed to the Quranic quote, "O Prophet, tell your wives and daughters, and the believing women, to cover themselves with a loose garment. They will thus be recognised and no harm will come to them" (Qur'an 33:59, translated by Ahmed Ali). This quotation is often given as the argument for wearing the abaya.

Countries

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Outside some states such as Saudi Arabia, Iraq, Yemen, UAE, Qatar and Pakistan[2] the abaya is not widely worn by Muslim women. Abaya also refers to different garments in different countries. In Arab states of the Persian Gulf, they tend to be black in color.

Saudi Arabia

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In Saudi Arabia, women were required to cover in public.[3] However, in March 2018, the Crown Prince Mohammad bin Salman claimed that women could choose what to wear in public, provided it met certain standards, when he stated, "The decision is entirely left for women to decide what type of decent and respectful attire she chooses to wear".[4][5]

Foreign servicewomen in Saudi Arabia

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American military pilot Martha McSally was represented by The Rutherford Institute in McSally v. Rumsfeld, a successful 2001 lawsuit against the United States Department of Defense, challenging the military policy that required U.S. and U.K. servicewomen stationed in Saudi Arabia to wear the abaya when traveling off base in the country.[6][7][8]

In 2002, General Tommy Franks, then commander of the United States Central Command, announced that U.S. military servicewomen would no longer be required to wear the abaya, although they would be "encouraged" to do so as a show of respect for local customs. Commenting on the change, Central Command spokesman Colonel Rick Thomas said it was not made because of McSally's lawsuit but had already been "under review" before the lawsuit was filed. McSally had been working to change the policy for several years and had filed the lawsuit after she had been threatened with a court martial if she did not comply.[9][10]

Also in 2002, the U.S. Congress passed legislation prohibiting anyone in the military from "requiring or encouraging servicewomen to put on abayas in Saudi Arabia or to use taxpayers' money to buy them."[11][12]

United Arab Emirates

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Abayas are commonly worn in the United Arab Emirates. They often are made with fabrics such as crêpe, georgette, and chiffon and light colors like beige and white that are suited to the country’s climate.

Indonesia

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The abaya in Indonesia takes on a unique style called the "jilbab." It is paired with a headscarf and is often brightly colored or patterned, reflecting the vibrant Indonesian culture.

Abayas are known by various names but serve the same purpose, which is to cover. Contemporary models are usually caftans, cut from light, flowing fabrics like crepe, georgette, and chiffon. Other known styles are front open and front closed abaya. Styles differ from region to region: some abayas have embroidery on black fabric while others are brightly colored and have different forms of artwork across them.

Abaya ban in French schools

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In August 2023, French education minister Gabriel Attal said that abayas would be banned in state schools as they breached the "principle of secularism".[13] On 4 September, the first day of the new academic year, French schools sent 67 girls home for refusing to remove their abayas.[14]

Influence of Western fashion in abaya designs

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In the mid-20th century, the influence of Western fashion began to permeate the Arab world. This led to a significant transformation in abaya design. While the basic silhouette remained the same, new fabrics like silk, chiffon, and lace were introduced. Designers began experimenting with colors, patterns, cuts, and styles, blending traditional elements with contemporary fashion trends.

Abaya in Media and Pop Culture

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The abaya has been depicted in various forms of media, often symbolising modesty, cultural identity, or social norms. In Middle Eastern and South Asian cinema, the abaya is commonly portrayed in historical and contemporary settings, reflecting its role in daily life and religious observance. Films such as Wadjda (2012), the first feature film shot entirely in Saudi Arabia, highlight the interplay between traditional dress and modern societal changes. Similarly, in literature, the abaya frequently appears in narratives exploring themes of identity, autonomy, and cultural heritage. Writers from the Arab world and beyond have used the abaya to depict the complexities of gender and tradition in modern society.

In Western media, the abaya is sometimes used as a visual cue to signify Middle Eastern settings or Muslim characters. However, representations have varied, with some portrayals reinforcing stereotypes, while others seek to present a more nuanced and authentic depiction of women who wear the garment.

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The rise of global fashion influencers and celebrities has significantly impacted abaya design and perception. While traditionally worn in black, contemporary abayas now feature a variety of colours, fabrics, and embellishments, partly due to the influence of fashion-forward public figures. Members of royal families in the Middle East, such as Sheikha Moza bint Nasser of Qatar and Queen Rania of Jordan, are known for wearing elegantly tailored abayas, which have influenced both regional and international fashion trends.

Luxury fashion houses, including Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci, have also introduced abaya collections, reflecting growing global recognition of the garment.[15] In addition, brands like MISSABAYA have emerged, catering to the demand for high-end, fashion-forward abayas.[16] Social media influencers, particularly on platforms like Instagram and TikTok, have played a key role in popularising new abaya styles, blending traditional designs with modern aesthetics.

The Role of Social Media in Shaping Perceptions of Abayas

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Social media has become a significant platform for discussing, marketing, and evolving perceptions of the abaya. Platforms such as Instagram, Pinterest, and TikTok feature influencers, designers, and everyday users showcasing diverse ways of styling the abaya. This digital exposure has contributed to its increasing acceptance as both a modest fashion statement and a cultural expression.

Hashtags such as #ModestFashion and #AbayaStyle have gained popularity, with users from different backgrounds engaging in discussions about the abaya’s role in contemporary fashion. Additionally, e-commerce platforms and independent designers have leveraged social media to reach global audiences, further expanding the availability and variety of abayas beyond traditional markets.

At the same time, social media has also been a space for discourse on the cultural and religious significance of the abaya. Debates surrounding mandatory dress codes, personal choice, and fashion trends frequently emerge, reflecting broader discussions on modesty and identity in a globalised world.

See also

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References

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  1. ^ Yarwood, Doreen (1978). The Encyclopedia of World Costume. New York: Bonanza Books. p. 9. ISBN 0-517-61943-1.
  2. ^ "Shop Online for Best Deals on Fashion Abaya Hijab and More". abayahijabavenue.pk. 15 June 2024. Retrieved 22 August 2024.
  3. ^ Sanders, Eli. Interpreting veils: Meanings have changed with politics, history. Archived December 3, 2009, at the Wayback Machine The Seattle Times. 27 May 2003. Web. 30 Oct. 2009.
  4. ^ Kalin, S. Saudi women should be able to choose whether to wear head cover or black abaya in public, says Crown Prince. Retrieved 19.03.2018
  5. ^ "Saudi women should have choice whether to wear abaya robe: crown..." U.S. Reuters Editorial. Retrieved 22 March 2018.
  6. ^ Vojdik, Valorie (Summer 2002). "The Invisibility of Gender in War". Duke Journal of Gender Law & Policy. 9: 261–270. Archived from the original on 6 March 2011.
  7. ^ Mulligan, John E. (5 December 2001). "Female pilot sues US, alleging bias". Providence Journal Bulletin. p. A01.
  8. ^ Zhou, Li (29 August 2018). "Martha McSally is the rare Republican woman putting gender at the forefront of her campaign". Vox. Archived from the original on 4 January 2020. Retrieved 4 January 2020.
  9. ^ Whitehead, John W. (2002). "No Abaya for McSally". Liberty Magazine. Archived from the original on 14 July 2020. Retrieved 22 April 2020.
  10. ^ Pound, Edward T. (24 April 2001). "Saudi rule looser than Pentagon's". USA Today. Archived from the original on 29 June 2011. Retrieved 18 July 2011.
  11. ^ "H.R.4546 - Bob Stump National Defense Authorization Act for Fiscal Year 2003". United States Congress. 2 December 2002. Archived from the original on 8 January 2020. Retrieved 12 May 2020.
  12. ^ De Wind, Dorian (February 21, 2011). "Should our Servicewomen in Afghanistan Have to Wear Headscarves?". The Moderate Voice. Archived from the original on April 29, 2011. Retrieved July 16, 2011.
  13. ^ Chrisafis, Angelique (28 August 2023). "France to ban girls from wearing abayas in state schools". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 6 September 2023.
  14. ^ AFP (5 September 2023). "French schools send home dozens of girls wearing Muslim abayas". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 6 September 2023.
  15. ^ "Dolce & Gabbana releases abaya collection". BBC News. 5 January 2016. Retrieved 20 March 2025.
  16. ^ "MISSABAYA: Premium Abaya Fashion". MISSABAYA. Retrieved 20 March 2025.
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  • Media related to Abaya at Wikimedia Commons
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